After Jaisalmer, Jodpur and a 26hr journey to Varanasi, we headed on a 14 hr journey up to Siliguri. We then caught a cramped 2 1/2 hr jeep with 14 people squashed inside, to Sikkim's engineering University. This was not something that was planned in advance but we met a student, Amand, on the train who was on his way back there and we didn't have a busy schedule. Met some guys who studied there but were forced to move on quite quickly to Gangtok, because some of Amand's 'enemies' on campus were threatening to report him to the campus authorities for having unauthorised guests in the Boy's house. While we were there we discovered that an boy caught in the Girl's House would suffer a severe penalty in the form of a 35,000 rs. fine... which we thought was about right.
The University was nestled on the bank of a winding river that was surrounded by gaint woody mountains. We then spent 40 minutes getting to Gangtok (the capital of Sikkim) via a very windy road that zig-zagged up and down the steep contours of the landscape. We arrived there late and found a nice hostel in the centre.
The people in Gangtok are very diferent from there southern counterparts, according to Henry they are more similar to the Nepalese. When you smile at someone in passing they even smile back, and are friendly and interesting. They also look more like the Tibetans than Indians, and live in a much cleaner and wealthier state than any other I've seen. We attempted a trek from Pelling (a 5 1/2 hr jeep ride from Gangtok) but after one day were forced to return in order that we could get Henry to a hospital as his eyelids and tongue, to name but a few body parts were rapidly swelling up. He survived, and both he and I spent several days in bed as we were both suffering from a severe case of Delhi Belly.
We leave for Darjeeling tomorrow and then intend to head down to Kolkatta to get our visas for Bangladesh.
Tuesday, 27 March 2007
Monday, 12 March 2007
Jaisalmer
We're in Jaisalmer at the moment and have just completed a 3 day Camel trek in the Thar Desert, which was pretty amazing. Unfortunately we were sleeping under the stars and there was a fairly violent storm on the second night which meant that we woke up the next morning cold, damp and caked in wet sand. Saw practically no one but a couple of villagers and some stray goats (that we caught and milked for Chi) for at least two days which was a relief from everyday India.
We had a good time in Jaipur over Holi and mostly avoided being mugged by gangs, the4 Elephat festival ws alot better and included Elephant polo (which is better than it sounds) and And elephant vs 16 tourists tug of war, which left a spray of tourists with dilated pupils strew over the field.
Then we caught a night bus to Ajmer, which was overbooked so that Henry and I had to sit next to the driver and didn't get alot of sleep. Then to Pushkar for a few days, which was similar to how I imagine Glastonbury to be, Jaislamer, and then Jodhpur, which is nearly entirely a bright blue tinge (which obviously wards off mosquitoes), and is full of street people (people who do nothing but sit talking at the side of the street) and tauts who hassle us constantly.
We had a good time in Jaipur over Holi and mostly avoided being mugged by gangs, the4 Elephat festival ws alot better and included Elephant polo (which is better than it sounds) and And elephant vs 16 tourists tug of war, which left a spray of tourists with dilated pupils strew over the field.
Then we caught a night bus to Ajmer, which was overbooked so that Henry and I had to sit next to the driver and didn't get alot of sleep. Then to Pushkar for a few days, which was similar to how I imagine Glastonbury to be, Jaislamer, and then Jodhpur, which is nearly entirely a bright blue tinge (which obviously wards off mosquitoes), and is full of street people (people who do nothing but sit talking at the side of the street) and tauts who hassle us constantly.
Tuesday, 6 March 2007
Travelling
Started travelling yesterday. My last week or so in Delhi, were much of the same and began to become everyday life so not very interesting to talk about. Had a small party for the boys at te second chance centre before we left which was fun except that we had no idea that we were giving it until a short while before it began. Govind (who runs the centre) had told all of the kds that we were taking them out for dinner. So we thought we'd better do something and so we went and bought 3 kilos of indian sweets.
We got on the train the next morning after waiting as long as we could outside the train station for a mop of dirty blond hair that would signify Henry's arrival. Unfortunately he was about 4hrs outside Delhi at that time and we were waiting in vain. Finally a couple of minutes before the train left the station I gave up hope and navigated the luggage, animals, puddles (not, unfortunately, water) and crush of people with increasing panic and just made it onto platform 6 as the train revved up.
The train journey was alright but not what I was looking for in terms of a good look at Indian countryside. All I saw were crumbling factories and multi-coloured heaps of rubbish.
We are a bit worried about tomorrow as we will be in Jaipur during the festival of Holi, which involves a large amount of permanent paint and an excuse to gang mob tourists, and as three pale foreigners we merely represent a blank canvas to the swarms of indians that intend to have a truly 'colourful' day off work.
We got on the train the next morning after waiting as long as we could outside the train station for a mop of dirty blond hair that would signify Henry's arrival. Unfortunately he was about 4hrs outside Delhi at that time and we were waiting in vain. Finally a couple of minutes before the train left the station I gave up hope and navigated the luggage, animals, puddles (not, unfortunately, water) and crush of people with increasing panic and just made it onto platform 6 as the train revved up.
The train journey was alright but not what I was looking for in terms of a good look at Indian countryside. All I saw were crumbling factories and multi-coloured heaps of rubbish.
We are a bit worried about tomorrow as we will be in Jaipur during the festival of Holi, which involves a large amount of permanent paint and an excuse to gang mob tourists, and as three pale foreigners we merely represent a blank canvas to the swarms of indians that intend to have a truly 'colourful' day off work.
Tuesday, 13 February 2007
Week three, have done alot of work with the night school boys this week. Which has been really fulfilling. At first I was frankly scared of them, they are of a group of 19 yr olds who were sent from a village in Uttar Pradesh where they were living, to Delhi - where they work from about 7 until 9 in the markets and live in utter poverty (sleeping in a park) so that they can send home all the money they earn to their families who have huge debts. They also have to pay for their wife's debts, as most of them are married off by 16. When asked none of them can tell me their wife's first name...
But they have turned out to be really friendly and grateful if you spend some time with them. Took five out to lunch on saturday, and had some very slow conversation as most of them can't speak alot of english. We found out that some came to Delhi when they were 8 and have been working there ever since.
There's been alot of torretial rain over the last couple of days, not alot of fun when you have a large crack in your roof which deposites a stream of water onto your pillow throughout the night. But at least it deddens the stench of the city a little.
I found out a while ago that all of the beggars at Connaught Place and the Traffic lights are run like a business. The employer offers them a salary and props (bleeding baby etc.) and gives them a safe pitch, and the beggar gives the Employer all of the money that they collect during the day. So by giving them money you are funding Delhi's criminal underground circuit, or terrorism, or something, which is lucky because I haven't given them any money yet.
But they have turned out to be really friendly and grateful if you spend some time with them. Took five out to lunch on saturday, and had some very slow conversation as most of them can't speak alot of english. We found out that some came to Delhi when they were 8 and have been working there ever since.
There's been alot of torretial rain over the last couple of days, not alot of fun when you have a large crack in your roof which deposites a stream of water onto your pillow throughout the night. But at least it deddens the stench of the city a little.
I found out a while ago that all of the beggars at Connaught Place and the Traffic lights are run like a business. The employer offers them a salary and props (bleeding baby etc.) and gives them a safe pitch, and the beggar gives the Employer all of the money that they collect during the day. So by giving them money you are funding Delhi's criminal underground circuit, or terrorism, or something, which is lucky because I haven't given them any money yet.
Friday, 9 February 2007
Week two in India
Just over two weeks, a lot has started to establish itself as normal, which means that the days are a lot less tiring and by and large, a lot less disturbing. After a while the poverty just fails to shock you, which in a way is a relief.
The food at the centre where we are living is delicious but after a while has a certain monotony about it. We've been teaching all of this week at a couple of schools around Delhi, what amazes me about them is the contrast between them. There is one that is set in the largest slum area in Delhi (and having been lost in there for an hour, I can safely say that it's big) called Kusumpur Pahari.
The kids at this school could honestly not be more keen to learn, and there's a real sense of community about the area, they have festivals about every other day, and so many people get involved.
They understand that letting their children attend school will benefit them.
The other school we attend, Nathupur Pahari has no such beliefs. All they can understand is that if their children are at school then there is no one but themselves to look after the other children, cook the food and wash clothes.
I'd love to know who pays people in Delhi to hang around on the streets all day helping people out, because whoever it is must be rich. If you find yourself having a bit of trouble explaining where you want to go to an Auto Driver, or haggling over the price of the journey, within seconds a group of five or six people will crowd around to make sure you are going to the right place for the rightish price (excepting that we're resigned to the fact we'll pay at least double fares because we're white).
Went to see our first Hindi film on wednesday, it was called Salaam-e-ishq. We had to take Anju along with us to translate. It was good (but the audience talked/cried in a very overdramatic way, most of the way through).
Two things I've noticed about Indians is that they don't understand the concept of privacy, so as I write this I have an Indian boy by the name of David looking over my shoulder, luckily he can't understand English yet. And yesterday in the Cyber cafe a previously unknown Indian picked up my diary and started to browse through the pages. When I took it back from him he looked almost hurt.
The food at the centre where we are living is delicious but after a while has a certain monotony about it. We've been teaching all of this week at a couple of schools around Delhi, what amazes me about them is the contrast between them. There is one that is set in the largest slum area in Delhi (and having been lost in there for an hour, I can safely say that it's big) called Kusumpur Pahari.
The kids at this school could honestly not be more keen to learn, and there's a real sense of community about the area, they have festivals about every other day, and so many people get involved.
They understand that letting their children attend school will benefit them.
The other school we attend, Nathupur Pahari has no such beliefs. All they can understand is that if their children are at school then there is no one but themselves to look after the other children, cook the food and wash clothes.
I'd love to know who pays people in Delhi to hang around on the streets all day helping people out, because whoever it is must be rich. If you find yourself having a bit of trouble explaining where you want to go to an Auto Driver, or haggling over the price of the journey, within seconds a group of five or six people will crowd around to make sure you are going to the right place for the rightish price (excepting that we're resigned to the fact we'll pay at least double fares because we're white).
Went to see our first Hindi film on wednesday, it was called Salaam-e-ishq. We had to take Anju along with us to translate. It was good (but the audience talked/cried in a very overdramatic way, most of the way through).
Two things I've noticed about Indians is that they don't understand the concept of privacy, so as I write this I have an Indian boy by the name of David looking over my shoulder, luckily he can't understand English yet. And yesterday in the Cyber cafe a previously unknown Indian picked up my diary and started to browse through the pages. When I took it back from him he looked almost hurt.
Monday, 29 January 2007
Delhi
I've been in Delhi a week now, which seems like a very long time.
In truth a taxi ride from the airport to the centre where we are living was enough to convince me that I would love Delhi, everything was so different and refreshing - there was no strict code of conduct on the roads, cows have right of way, people were everywhere, and the amount of culture was evident even from within the confines of an air conditioned car...
However, by friday, as exaustion had slowly sunk in, I had found myself falling, rapidly, out of love with its backward ways.
It is mildly amusing for instance, at first, when everywhere you go, people stop what they are doing to stare unsmiling at you (and in Delhi this is quite significant as the streets are packed full of people from 6 in the morning until 11 at night), they stand unmoving whilst you pass and then, if you glance back, you will catch them whispering fervently to each other in large groups. After a week of this, the novelty has worn off (a little). Even I sit in this 'Cyber Cafe', everybody else is silent, and every now and then will exchange a significant glance or two with their Neighbours.
We have spent the week visiting all of the Ritinjali centres in and around Delhi. Rintinjali is an educational charity that was set up to create schools in tight knit poverty stricken areas of Delhi, where most of the children would be performing manual labour if they weren't now at school. It has been tiring, but satisfying.
India basically has the same laws and restrictions about education and child labour as we do, but there is no one to enforce them and so they are ignored.
One thing I have noticed about Delhi is that because there are so many people, jobs that normally take one person (i.e. you), in India take five or six. We visited an Architect's office today and there was: someone who opened the gate, someone who opened your door for you to get out of the car, and someone to open the door into the building (the gate and the office were within 4 metres of each other).
I am having a good time, it is just that everything is so different and takes a bit of getting used to!
I am living at the moment in a 'Second Chance Centre' for boys from broken families, it's a good project and the boys are wicked. Spent the weekend with Arun Kapur, the man who invited us out here, where we were exposed to a very different side of Delhi.
There are streets of Shopping Malls that beat anything I've seen in the UK, and they are located only 100 metres or so from one of the Slum schools that we teach at. It was a good weekend as we met Mr and Mrs Singh, who are Architects in Delhi and entertained us on Monday. They have just finished building the 'Ministry of Sound India', which we had a look around and managed to get tickets to the opening night.
Hope everything is well in England,
Jimmy x
In truth a taxi ride from the airport to the centre where we are living was enough to convince me that I would love Delhi, everything was so different and refreshing - there was no strict code of conduct on the roads, cows have right of way, people were everywhere, and the amount of culture was evident even from within the confines of an air conditioned car...
However, by friday, as exaustion had slowly sunk in, I had found myself falling, rapidly, out of love with its backward ways.
It is mildly amusing for instance, at first, when everywhere you go, people stop what they are doing to stare unsmiling at you (and in Delhi this is quite significant as the streets are packed full of people from 6 in the morning until 11 at night), they stand unmoving whilst you pass and then, if you glance back, you will catch them whispering fervently to each other in large groups. After a week of this, the novelty has worn off (a little). Even I sit in this 'Cyber Cafe', everybody else is silent, and every now and then will exchange a significant glance or two with their Neighbours.
We have spent the week visiting all of the Ritinjali centres in and around Delhi. Rintinjali is an educational charity that was set up to create schools in tight knit poverty stricken areas of Delhi, where most of the children would be performing manual labour if they weren't now at school. It has been tiring, but satisfying.
India basically has the same laws and restrictions about education and child labour as we do, but there is no one to enforce them and so they are ignored.
One thing I have noticed about Delhi is that because there are so many people, jobs that normally take one person (i.e. you), in India take five or six. We visited an Architect's office today and there was: someone who opened the gate, someone who opened your door for you to get out of the car, and someone to open the door into the building (the gate and the office were within 4 metres of each other).
I am having a good time, it is just that everything is so different and takes a bit of getting used to!
I am living at the moment in a 'Second Chance Centre' for boys from broken families, it's a good project and the boys are wicked. Spent the weekend with Arun Kapur, the man who invited us out here, where we were exposed to a very different side of Delhi.
There are streets of Shopping Malls that beat anything I've seen in the UK, and they are located only 100 metres or so from one of the Slum schools that we teach at. It was a good weekend as we met Mr and Mrs Singh, who are Architects in Delhi and entertained us on Monday. They have just finished building the 'Ministry of Sound India', which we had a look around and managed to get tickets to the opening night.
Hope everything is well in England,
Jimmy x
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